The alarm of your septic control unit is buzzing, and the warning light is flashing. Your Hiblow aerator has suddenly stopped working.
Before you purchase a replacement, you should consider rebuilding your existing Hiblow aerator using a repair kit.
Hiblow septic air pumps typically stop working when one of the diaphragms tear.
The air pump is designed with a safety screw that breaks when the magnet travels too far due to the diaphragm rupturing to prevent further damage to the aerator. 

This Tutorial

This tutorial will provide a step-by-step process of rebuilding a Hiblow aerator using a rebuild kit.
In this demonstration, we will be using the Hiblow HP-60/80 rebuild kit. However, the process is the same for any model of Hiblow aerator.
This process is also the same for other linear diaphragm pumps due to them having similar design layouts and working methods.  

Step 1: Gather Tools and Materials 

You will need these items below to rebuild your aerator.
A chart is provided below to match up your Hiblow model number with the proper repair kit in our store.

What you will need:

• The damaged aerator
• Phillips screwdriver
• 5/16 or 8mm socket wrench
  7mm for the diaphragm nut/washer
• A repair kit for your aerator

Your repair kit should have the following replacement parts:

• 2 blocks
• 2 diaphragms
• Dust filter
• Nuts and washers for the diaphragm
• Replacement safety screw

Below is a chart to help you find a repair kit for your aerator:

Step 2: Remove corner bolts

Locate and remove the four bolts on each corner of the aerator using the 8mm wrench or the Philips screwdriver.
This will usually be easier using the wrench because the insides of the screws may be rusted or have dirt in them.
Using the screwdriver may run the risk of stripping the screw.
Don’t panic if this happens; you can still use a socket wrench to remove the bolts.

Step 3: Remove the top cover

Remove the green cover form the base of the aerator.
This reveals the insides of the aerator.
You might have to tap lightly on the edges with a hammer or mallet to loosen the cover.

Step 4: Remove the Fire-Resistant sound-insulating Shroud

Remove the rectangular sound-insulating shroud that is wrapped around the unit.
This will be tightly fit around the aerator.

Step 5: Remove chamber block screws

Locate the two-chamber blocks on the ends of the aerator.

 Use the Philips screwdriver to remove 8 total screws from both chamber blocks.

Step 6: Remove Chamber Blocks

Once the screws are removed, remove the chamber blocks to expose the diaphragms.
To do this, you will need to detach them from the rubber air tubes.
Be sure to detach the chamber blocks from the tubes after the blocks are unscrewed. 
Twist the chamber blocks back and forth to accomplish this, do not pry at the rubber air tubes, as you run the risk of tearing the rubber.

Step 7: Remove Nuts and Washers

Use the 7mm wrench to remove a nut and washer located in the center of each diaphragm.

Here is the second diaphragm below.

Step 8: Remove Diaphragms

Remove the old diaphragms.
You will have to remove both diaphragms before inspecting the magnet in the next step.

Step 9: Check Magnetic Rod Block

Remove and inspect the magnet in between where the two diaphragms were.

You should be looking for any cracks in the housing, or if the threads that were attached to the diaphragms are broken. These issues may happen if the safety screw does not function properly.

If your magnet is damaged, you should purchase a replacement magnet before continuing the rebuild. 
If you don’t spot any issues, replace the old magnet back into the aerator.
If your aerator has a lot of red dust inside, It is advisable to replace aerator due to the fact the coils are breaking, which is a sign your aerator doesn’t have much more life left.

Step 10: Replace Diaphragms

Put the new diaphragms on where the old ones used to be. Replace both diaphragms before replacing the chamber blocks.
Secure the new diaphragms using the replacement nuts and washers from the kit. 
You will have to push into one of the diaphragms after replacing the first one so that the threads on the magnet stick out to replace the second diaphragm, as pictured below. 

Pushing on one side of the diaphragm.

Step 11: Replace Chamber Blocks

Place the replacement chamber blocks onto the diaphragms. 
Screw-in the chamber blocks using the 8 screws that were removed in step 5. 
Be sure to secure the air tubes to the chamber blocks using the metal sealing clamps. The sealing clamps should be pointed upwards so that the shroud will fit back on correctly. 

 Step 12: Replace Safety Screw

Locate the broken safety screw on top of the aerator

Insert the replacement safety screw through the two copper connectors. Make sure that the screw head is inserted on the other side of the copper connectors so that the white nylon nut can be threaded on correctly. 

Once the screw is in place, take the white nylon nut to the end of the screw and tighten until the copper connectors are closed. 

There is a space between the threads of the screw where it is smooth. The nylon nut only needs to be placed up to here.

Step 13: Replace Shroud

Replace the rectangular shroud that was removed in step 4.
Remember that the sealing pins on the air tubes need to be facing up for you to adequately replace the shroud. 

Step 14: Replace Cover

Replace the aerator cover and corner bolts 

Step 15: Replace Air Filter

Use the Phillips head screwdriver to remove the top of the cover

Replace the old filter with the replacement from the kit 

Screw the top of the aerator back on

You’re now finished

You have successfully rebuilt your Hiblow Aerator. 

The post How to Rebuild and Repair a Hiblow Septic Aerator appeared first on Aerobic Septic System.

1. You will need the proper rebuild kit for your pump. This is normally found on top of the unit. This rotary vane septic air pump in the picture is not the one being rebuilt, but to show you what to look for a lot, of people give the motor model and that changes every two years or so and doesn’t really help.

The Model Number is the top number listed under the model heading. For this pump it is 1023-101Q-3G608X. Gast has been known to change model numbers many times, so we use the first 4 digits to identify which pump you have. In this case, it is a Gast 1023 Rotary Vane Septic Air Pump.

1. Once you know the model number and have your kit, that we have found for you below by model number,  you can rebuild your rotary vane septic air pump.

Gast 0523:   Gast 0523 K478 Septic air pump rebuild kit

Gast RV03:  Gast RV03 Septic air pump rebuild kit

Gast RV05:  Gast RV05 Septic air pump rebuild kit

Gast AT05:  Gast AT05 Septic air pump rebuild kit

Gast AT03:  Gast AT03 Septic air pump rebuild kit

Gast 0823:  Gast 0823 Septic air pump rebuild kit

Gast 1023:   Gast 1023 Septic air pump rebuild Kit

3. You will need the proper tools to accomplish the rebuild:

• 11mm socket or 7/16 for the outer housing bolts
•  10mm socket or 7/16 for the inner housing bolts
• Socket diver
• Silicone to hold the gasket in place when placing the outer housing on so you don’t have to fight it
• Razor blade to remove old gasket material as it will be stuck on the metal.

This is a short list of all the tools you will need to repair your Gast Rotary Vane Septic Air Pump.

1. You will need to get the internal filters off out of the unit. You don’t want to just try and undo them, you run the risk of breaking them, as they are hollow. You want to first tighten them very slightly, and by that, I mean just so they move a couple millimeters if that.

We've drawn arrows to each of the bolts you will need to remove to replace your Gast Rotary Vane Septic Air Pump damaged carbon vanes.

1. Next you will remove the outer chamber. You will need the 11mm socket to achieve this. Remove all the bolts. Then gently tap on the top and it should come off. Place the bolts in the housing as to not misplace them.

This image shows the bolts removed from the outer casing of your Gast Rotary Vane Septic Air Pump.

1. To remove the counter face plate, you will need a 10mm socket. You will need to remove all of these bolts then gently pull on the plate to remove it. If the orange spacer gasket is stuck to this plate, do not remove it. You will curse yourself if you do, it doesn’t need to be replaced 95 percent of the time. It's time consuming and a real pain to get the new one to sit and stay in place. Trust me I’ve done this thousands of times. If it's stuck to the main counter face leave it as well.

This photo shows proper gasket installation on your rebuild Gast Rotary Vane Septic Air Pump.

1. You now are in the heart of the unit where the vanes are. The vanes will most likely be shattered and in pieces. Sometime because of the way the vanes break one will break and the following one will not. This happens because vanes don’t all wear at the same rate; we are talking thousands of an inch. So, the vane that doesn’t break catches the one the one that does and shoves the vanes into the rotating part and jams it. Sometimes you can get it out pretty easily and other times you have to take a hex wrench and loosen the counter face. You will want to check the inside for carbon pieces and make sure they are all removed. DO NOT SPRAY ANY KIND OF LUBRICANT INTO THE PUMP. The oils will destroy the vanes. It is meant to run dry with the bearings sealed.

Make sure you put the carbon vanes in correctly, or they will not create a proper vacuum and can jam, ruining your rotary vane septic air pump.

1. Replace the vanes in the slots. They are cut a certain way and the vane is also cut in the same way so it should fit flush in the pump. A lot of the ¼ HP Gast pumps have an orange spacer gasket inside and it gets stuck to either the end plate or the rotor housing. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THIS, it is a pain to get off and a pain to get to set correctly. In our experience, and we have rebuilt thousands of these pumps, it is not necessary to remove this.

This graphic shows proper vane alignment for your rotary vane compressor.

1. The backing plate gasket will need to be removed. It is normally stuck to the metal very well and you will need a razor blade to remove it fully. You will also want to check the lip of it, where it meets up with the rotor housing, to make sure it is clean and will slide on smoothly. We sometimes sand this down lightly to knock off any rough edges with 600-1000 grit sand paper. Scotch bright will work also.

We use a new razor blade to scrape off the old gasket, ensuring a proper seal.

Once the backing plate is clean, you can put the new gasket on. We cheat and put a little silicone on where the gasket goes, so it stays in place and we don’t have to fight it.

Dap sealant ensures the new gasket adheres effectively, increasing the vacuum and lifetime of your pump.

This image shows a correctly installed gasket sealed with DAP.

Once the gasket is on you can put the counter face back on and put the bolts in with the 10 mm driver. It's important that there are no gaps and that the plate is sitting flush with the rotor housing. Once it's sitting flush, you can tighten the bolts down. It's not a car tire, it only needs to be tightened to 115 inch pounds of torque. That is just snug. If you tighten it too much, the counter faceplate and the rotor will touch and bind the pump up. So just tight, not all your might into it. After you have this bolted on, you will want to do a test run and make sure it is running smooth. It should start right up; you don’t have to run it long. 5-10 seconds is enough. Make sure you have good pressure and quickly press and release your finger over the inlet and outlet.  Make sure you have good vacuum and pressure and then turn the unit off again. It should slowly stop rotating; 2-3 seconds until it stops all the way. You don't want it to immediately stop.

Now you can put the outer housing on. Start with the center bolt to center it and then put the other bolts in place. Once they're all on, you can replace the internal filters and your rotary vane septic air pump is ready to go!

Your all done with the rebuild when your able to screw the bolts back onto the chamber face!

The post How To Rebuild A Gast Rotary Vane Compressor appeared first on Aerobic Septic System.

Check Out The Video Here

The alarm of your septic control unit is buzzing, and the warning light is flashing.
Your Hiblow HP 80 septic aerator has suddenly stopped working.
Before you purchase a replacement, you should consider rebuilding your existing Hiblow aerator using a repair kit.

Hiblow septic air pumps typically stop working when one of the diaphragms tear.
The air pump is designed with a safety screw that breaks when the magnet travels too far due to the diaphragm rupturing to prevent further damage to the aerator.

Our Hiblow HP 80 Rebuild Tutorial

This tutorial will provide a step-by-step process of rebuilding a Hiblow aerator using a rebuild kit.
In this demonstration, we will be using the Hiblow HP-60/80 rebuild kit. However, the process is the same for any model of Hiblow aerator.
This process is also the same for other linear diaphragm pumps due to them having similar design layouts and working methods.

Step 1: Gather Tools And Materials

You will need these items below to rebuild your Hiblow HP 80 aerator.
A chart is provided below to match up your Hiblow model number with the proper repair kit available at Wholesale Septic Supply.

What you will need:

A Phillips screwdriver
5/16 or 8mm socket wrench
7mm for the diaphragm nut/washer
A repair kit for your aerator

Your repair kit should have the following replacement parts:

2 replacement chamber blocks
2 replacement diaphragms
1 replacement Dust filter
New replacement Nuts and washers for the diaphragm
1 Replacement safety screw

Below is a chart to help you find a repair kit for your aerator:

Step 2: Remove Septic Aerator Corner Bolts

Locate and remove the four bolts on each corner of your septic tank aerator using the 8mm wrench or the Phillips screwdriver.
This will usually be easier using a wrench because the insides of the screws may be rusted or have dirt in them and using the screwdriver may run the risk of stripping the old screw.
Don’t panic if this happens; you can always use a socket wrench to remove the bolts.

Step 3: Remove Septic Aerator Top Cover

Remove the green cover form the base of the aerator.
This reveals the insides of the aerator.
You might have to tap lightly on the edges with a hammer or mallet to loosen the cover.

Step 4: Remove Fire-Resistant Sound-Insulating Shroud

Remove the rectangular sound insulating shroud that is wrapped around the unit.
This will be tightly fit around the aerator.

Step 5: Remove Chamber Block Screws

Locate the two chamber blocks on the ends of the aerator.

Use the Philips screwdriver to remove 8 total screws from both chamber blocks.

Step 6: Remove Old Chamber Blocks

Once the screws are removed, remove the chamber blocks to expose the diaphragms.
To do this, you will need to detach them from the rubber air tubes.
Be sure to detach the chamber blocks from the tubes after the blocks are unscrewed.
Twist the chamber blocks back and forth to accomplish this, do not pry at the rubber air tubes, as you run the risk of tearing the rubber.

Step 7: Remove Nuts And Washers

Use the 7mm wrench to remove a nut and washer located in the center of each diaphragm.

Here is the second diaphragm below.

Step 8: Remove Old Diaphragms

Remove the old diaphragms.
You will have to remove both diaphragms before inspecting the magnet in the next step.

Step 9: Check Magnetic Rod Block

Remove and inspect the magnet in between where the two diaphragms were.

You should be looking for any cracks in the housing, or if the threads that were attached to the diaphragms are broken. These issues may happen if the safety screw does not function properly.

If your magnet is damaged, you should purchase a replacement magnet before continuing the rebuild.
If you don’t spot any issues, replace the old magnet back into the aerator.
If your aerator has a lot of red dust inside, It is advisable to replace aerator due to the fact the coils are breaking, which is a sign your aerator doesn’t have much more life left.

Step 10: Replace Old Diaphragms

Put the new diaphragms on where the old ones used to be. Replace both diaphragms before replacing the chamber blocks.
Secure the new diaphragms using the replacement nuts and washers from the kit.
You will have to push into one of the diaphragms after replacing the first one so that the threads on the magnet stick out to replace the second diaphragm, as pictured below.

Pushing on one side of the diaphragm.

Step 11: Replace Old Chamber Blocks

Place the replacement chamber blocks onto the diaphragms.
Screw in the chamber blocks using the 8 screws that were removed in step 5. Be sure to secure the air tubes to the chamber blocks using the metal sealing clamps. The sealing clamps should be pointed upwards so that the shroud will fit back on correctly.

Step 12: Replace Old Safety Screw

Locate the broken safety screw on top of the septic aerator.

Insert the replacement safety screw through the two copper connectors. Make sure that the screw head is inserted on the other side of the copper connecters so that the white nylon nut can be threaded on correctly.

Once the safety screw is in place, take the white nylon nut on the end of the screw and tighten until the copper connectors are closed.

There is a space between the threads of the screw where it is smooth. The nylon nut only needs to be placed up to here.

Step 13: Replace Pump Shroud

Replace the rectangular pump shroud that was removed in step 4.
Remember that the sealing pins on the air tubes need to be facing up for you to adequately replace the shroud.

Step 14: Replace Cover

Replace the aerator cover and corner bolts.

Step 15: Replace Air Filter

Use the Phillips head screwdriver to remove the top of the cover from your septic aerator.

Replace the old filter with the new replacement from the kit.

Screw the top of your septic aerator back on.

You're all finished!

You have successfully rebuilt your Hiblow Aerator.

Our In-Depth Hiblow HP 80 Rebuild Guide!

Check Out The Video Here

The alarm of your septic control unit is buzzing, and the warning light is flashing.
Your Hiblow HP 80 septic aerator has suddenly stopped working.
Before you purchase a replacement, you should consider rebuilding your existing Hiblow aerator using a repair kit.
Hiblow septic air pumps typically stop working when one of the diaphragms tear.
The air pump is designed with a safety screw that breaks when the magnet travels too far due to the diaphragm rupturing to prevent further damage to the aerator.

Our Hiblow HP 80 Rebuild Tutorial

This tutorial will provide a step-by-step process of rebuilding a Hiblow aerator using a rebuild kit.
In this demonstration, we will be using the Hiblow HP-60/80 rebuild kit. However, the process is the same for any model of Hiblow aerator.
This process is also the same for other linear diaphragm pumps due to them having similar design layouts and working methods.

Step 1: Gather Tools And Materials

You will need these items below to rebuild your Hiblow HP 80 aerator.
A chart is provided below to match up your Hiblow model number with the proper repair kit available at Wholesale Septic Supply.

What you will need:

A Phillips screwdriver
5/16 or 8mm socket wrench
7mm for the diaphragm nut/washer
A repair kit for your aerator

Your repair kit should have the following replacement parts:

2 replacement chamber blocks
2 replacement diaphragms
1 replacement Dust filter
New replacement Nuts and washers for the diaphragm
1 Replacement safety screw

Below is a chart to help you find a repair kit for your aerator:

Step 2: Remove Septic Aerator Corner Bolts

Locate and remove the four bolts on each corner of your septic tank aerator using the 8mm wrench or the Philips screwdriver.
This will usually be easier using a wrench because the insides of the screws may be rusted or have dirt in them and using the screwdriver may run the risk of stripping the old screw.
Don’t panic if this happens; you can always use a socket wrench to remove the bolts.

Step 3: Remove Septic Aerator Top Cover

Remove the green cover form the base of the aerator.
This reveals the insides of the aerator.
You might have to tap lightly on the edges with a hammer or mallet to loosen the cover.

Step 4: Remove Fire-Resistant Sound-Insulating Shroud

Remove the rectangular sound insulating shroud that is wrapped around the unit.
This will be tightly fit around the aerator.

Step 5: Remove Chamber Block Screws

Locate the two chamber blocks on the ends of the aerator.

 Use the Philips screwdriver to remove 8 total screws from both chamber blocks.

Step 6: Remove Old Chamber Blocks

Once the screws are removed, remove the chamber blocks to expose the diaphragms.
To do this, you will need to detach them from the rubber air tubes.
Be sure to detach the chamber blocks from the tubes after the blocks are unscrewed.
Twist the chamber blocks back and forth to accomplish this, do not pry at the rubber air tubes, as you run the risk of tearing the rubber.

Step 8: Remove Nuts And Washers

Use the 7mm wrench to remove a nut and washer located in the center of each diaphragm.

Here is the second diaphragm below.

Step 9: Remove Old Diaphragms

Remove the old diaphragms.
You will have to remove both diaphragms before inspecting the magnet in the next step.

Step 10: Check Magnetic Rod Block

Remove and inspect the magnet in between where the two diaphragms were.

You should be looking for any cracks in the housing, or if the threads that were attached to the diaphragms are broken. These issues may happen if the safety screw does not function properly.

If your magnet is damaged, you should purchase a replacement magnet before continuing the rebuild.
If you don’t spot any issues, replace the old magnet back into the aerator.
If your aerator has a lot of red dust inside, It is advisable to replace aerator due to the fact the coils are breaking, which is a sign your aerator doesn’t have much more life left.

Step 10: Replace Old Diaphragms

Put the new diaphragms on where the old ones used to be. Replace both diaphragms before replacing the chamber blocks.
Secure the new diaphragms using the replacement nuts and washers from the kit.
You will have to push into one of the diaphragms after replacing the first one so that the threads on the magnet stick out to replace the second diaphragm, as pictured below.

Pushing on one side of the diaphragm.

Step 11: Replace Old Chamber Blocks

Place the replacement chamber blocks onto the diaphragms.
Screw in the chamber blocks using the 8 screws that were removed in step 5.
Be sure to secure the air tubes to the chamber blocks using the metal sealing clamps. The sealing clamps should be pointed upwards so that the shroud will fit back on correctly.

Step 12: Replace Old Safety Screw

Locate the broken safety screw on top of the septic aerator.

Insert the replacement safety screw through the two copper connectors. Make sure that the screw head is inserted on the other side of the copper connecters so that the white nylon nut can be threaded on correctly.

Once the safety screw is in place, take the white nylon nut on the end of the screw and tighten until the copper connectors are closed.

There is a space between the threads of the screw where it is smooth. The nylon nut only needs to be placed up to here.

Step 13: Replace Pump Shroud

Replace the rectangular pump shroud that was removed in step 4.
Remember that the sealing pins on the air tubes need to be facing up for you to adequately replace the shroud.

Step 14: Replace Cover

Replace the aerator cover and corner bolts.

Step 15: Replace Air Filter

Use the Phillips head screwdriver to remove the top of the cover from your septic aerator.

Replace the old filter with the new replacement from the kit.

Screw the top of your septic aerator back on.

You’re now finished!

You have successfully rebuilt your Hiblow Aerator.

If you would like more information about Hiblow Septic Air Pump rebuild kits, please visit here where we post tips, tricks, and other great information!

The post Hiblow HP 80 Rebuild Guide appeared first on Aerobic Septic System.